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My travels
permitted a trip to this wondrous land of mystery in
July and August of 1999. The unique opportunity that was made possible by
my nephew made it memorable in more ways than should be possible. He
arranged for a van and driver to take us on a jaunt through about 2000 km of
rural Thailand. The trip can only be described as awesome and
inspiring.
My background is
all high tech and seldom in the last 15 years have I been very far from my
computer. So, leaving the computer in Bremerton, Washington and not
returning for 3 weeks had me worried that there would be withdrawal pains.
No pains were noted for several reasons.
Jannapha, rice
farms, Friendship Bridge, Temples, Statuary, Wax floats, Cave Paintings, and
people. As the saying goes, save the best for last, so I will provide some
detail in the reverse order from the list, since Jannapha is by far the biggest
reason for making the trip such a phenomenal pleasure.
To view photographs

People. From
this short trip I do not pretend to be any kind of an expert on the people of
Thailand. I never the less experienced a level of comfort that was not
anticipated. I speak no Thai yet felt very comfortable and at home at all
times, whether I was in a remote village or in a downtown market. Courtesy
abounds and left me full of respect for the treatment that was shown to me
throughout the trip.
Cave Paintings. The
experience of witnessing cave paintings left me breathless and absolutely
awestruck. I may be unique in this reaction having spent much of my free
time over the years fascinated with the evolution of mankind. These
studies have taken me through the wonders of books and photographs, as well as
through movies and TV programming to be in awe of the abilities of our
forerunners to take advantage of their surroundings and resources. To
witness the cave paintings in first person left me numb.
Wax Floats. In
our community we sponsor a festival called the Armed Forces Festival that
includes a parade. In our country we have many parades such as the Rose
Parade and Macys parade all of which have floats of one kind or another.
The Wax Floats that I refer to in this subject are part of a festival that is
held in a remote city in Thailand. They are breathtaking in their beauty,
size, and intricate work required to create such a work of art. The
winning float from each parade is saved and used in subsequent years. To
witness many years of these fantastic creations in one viewing area after the
parade was a wondrous experience.
Statuary. The
statues on display throughout the country are a measure of creativeness few ever
have the opportunity to see. The huge variety of creatures imaginary and
real that have been turned into statues throughout the centuries is indeed a
marvel to behold.
Temples. Every
where there are temples of red and gold that are scrupulously maintained.
Some are many centuries old and have been reconstructed or refurbished from the
many wars that the region has had to endure again and again. During the
trip we visited many of the temples, some in fabulously refurbished state and
others still in ruins. The care and love that was required to build these
edifices had to be very significant and must have required many years of work to
complete. The roads of stone that bring you to each of the temples usually
involves many hundreds of yards of pathway with greatly ornamented statuary
marking the sides. Up the hills and down the valleys as you earn your
right to visit the temple or shrine through physical effort. To be sure
the reward at the top (all seemed to be on the top of a hill) makes the trek
very worthwhile.
Friendship
Bridge. The northernmost portal in Thailand borders Laos and the Mekong
river that serves to separate the two countries. Spanning this body of
water between the two countries is the Friendship Bridge. On the Laos side
is the capitol city. We spent a day with a guide showing and describing
the many attractions of the city. Pictures are included of some of these
attractions elsewhere in this discussion.
Rice Farms.
Chicken and egg here. Are there so many rice farms because Thai staple
food includes rice, or does the staple food include rice because there is so
much rice grown in Thailand? These farms are tended in much the same
fashion as they have been for centuries, with an occasional glimpse of a tractor
doing some work, but by far the most common assistant for the farmer is an
ox. It was a memorable experience for us to be able to visit the family
home of a rice farmer. We spent the better part of a day and were treated
like royalty during the visit. This may have been influenced by the fact
that the farm we visited belonged to the parents and family of Jannapha, who is
described next.
Jannapha. My
entire trip was spent with Pha at my side. My estimate is that we walked
about two hundred miles during the trip, and even though our languages are
different, and neither of us understands the language of the other, we were able
to communicate very effectively. Pha is a very quiet and bashful lady with
an almost regal elegance in her manner and looks. The trip was enriched by
the company of her and remains in the front of my mind as the most awesome
memorable three weeks of my life.
UPDATE
Late November of
1999 found me returning to Thailand for the purpose of bringing Pha back with
me.
This trip proved
to be taxing on patience and required all the fortitude that could be
mustered. The VISA for Pha was most carefully prepared by the US Embassy
staff in Bangkok and required dotting every "I" and crossing every
"T" that has ever been required.
When going to
Thailand for this purpose it was expected that I would return December 4.
The many details of getting a VISA for someone from Thailand came into play and
the trip was extended over and over again to permit Pha's return with me.
After much effort
and many false hopes dashed we managed to prevail and her VISA was granted on
December 28, permitting us to return on December 30, 1999 and making her one of
the last Thai people to come to the US in the 20th century.
She is busy
getting acclimated to our cultural differences and the fact that no one here
speaks Thai and we are very much enjoying the time together.
Plans continue to
mature. My resignation as Executive Director of the Bremerton Chamber is
effective February 1, 2000. Beginning in February we will start
preparations to move to Thailand for a permanent residence. The plan at
this writing is to return on or about March 18, 2000.
March 16 was the
magic day and found us in Bangkok on our way to a hotel stay in Pattaya.
While we were in America my nephew was busy looking for likely places for us to
rent. The first full day here we looked at 4 places he had selected for
our consideration. Pha fell in love with a small townhouse that has two
rooms upstairs and two rooms down, so we have signed a lease for a year.
So instead of staying in the hotel we moved in to a furnished, although sparse,
it was to be quite nice when compared to a hotel room. We stayed at the
hotel for only 4 days and then have spent the next two weeks getting acquainted
with where we live. All transportation is through generous friends, or
taking a motor bike taxi to the main thoroughfare, where we catch a baht
bus. We have managed to pretty much finish the project of setting up the
condo for our needs, by hauling our purchases on a motorbike taxi. Some
items were just too much for a taxi and assistance from nephew was provided by
nephew for things like the over sized TV we bought.
Now we are
preparing for the visit of son John in a few days. (John met a Thai friend
of ours and a couple years later they were married and are now living in Denver,
Colorado.) During his visit we
will again hire a mini van and take a tour of the northwest part of Thailand
including the ancient city of Chiang Mai. We are excited about his visit,
and he is quite anxious to get a little vacation from work.
Visa arrangements
are in process for retirement needs and we expect that to be ready next
week. After John's visit we will take a few days and go to Pha's home
village. We are all anxious to get together with her family again since
Pha has so much built up excitement to share. Her trip to America was a
delight for her and for me and let her come in contact with snow for the
first time in her life. What a wonderful time we had during the 90 days
that she was with me.
Now we will begin
a new phase in our relationship as we search for a place to buy a home, but
instead of taking a year we quickly found a piece of land suitable for building
in the North East part of the country. We bought and hauled in dirt to
raise the land to street level and will wait a year before beginning
construction so the rainy season can do it's settling duties.
We are also making
plans for a visit from our very good friend Tudtong Johnson and her two
daughters from America. Her Thai heritage brings them home to Thailand two
times a year. We are looking forward to seeing them in June and hope that
they will be able to spend some time with us while she does her Thai business.
Our
Thai House
We have purchased
a small piece of land in the Northeastern part of Thailand in a village called
NaTae. It is about 60 km from the Mekong River and is in the heart of Thailand's rice farming area.
During our
December 2000 visit to the village we began the construction of our Thai style
house. The construction will be similar to the Lao type homes that
permeate the area. The basis of the home will be 9 vertical posts that are
about 14 inches square and about 20 feet high. The main living part of the
house will be the ground floor which will be built second after the completion
of the second story.
The building
process has been slow but steady over the last 9 years and most of the buildings
are in place and painted. You can never tell when you are finished because
changes in life are quite constant in Thailand and the final construction never
ends up being final. We now have our house with 9 rooms, 3 are bedrooms, A
large farm type kitchen, a nook for coffee, and a living room plus a family
area. This area is all tiled and finished as much as we plan. It is
rustic in that the ceiling is open and the quality of the wood is visible.
In addition to the
house we have a computer room (separate building) and a spare house which we use
mainly for storage but the area under the house has ended up being the main area
for our life style. We have cemented in most of the front part of the
property and the area under the spare house is no exception. Thai people
prefer to use that type open air area for cooking and we have added a couple
tables and chairs as well as a wooden bed for use by anyone that wishes to take
a nap. When it is time to eat straw mats are laid out on the cement and
people gather around the food and share what ever is on the menu. This
area serves us very well and about 90% of our living is in this area.
Photos
of construction.
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